| Ballater
is now at the heart of Royal Deeside, but it owes its original growth
to the time 200 years ago when a mineral-rich spa was discovered at
nearby Pannanich Wells. There is still a healthy connection with the
luxury Craigendarroch Hotel and leisure resort on the edge of the
town.
Once
Balmoral Castle was completed in 1855, Queen Victoria was a frequent
visitor. She and her descendants used the rail line to Ballater
regularly until it closed in 1966, after exactly a century of use.
The trackbed is now a walkway and cyclepath, and you go between
the station buildings to gain the platform and thus the path.
Turn
east and follow the walkway, which soon becomes a delightful fenced
path, with the wooded hill of Craigendarroch (crag of oaks) rising
to the left. In summer the verges are massed with wild flowers.
Cross the A93 road with care and continue along the peaceful path.
In about 800m, the ruined 15th century church and kirkyard of Kirkton
of Tullich is just on the left. The first chapel here was founded
by St Nathalan in the 7th century. Nathalan made a pilgrimage to
Rome. He had chained his right arm to his side as a penance and
thrown the key into the Dee. He bought a fish to eat in Rome and
in its stomach, found the same key.
The
path continues, between birch trees. On a low hill on the right
is a tall obelisk to William Farquharson of Monaltrie, who died
in 1828 aged 75. The Farquharsons are still major landowners on
Deeside. Shortly after this, you see the Dee on the right. The river
stays in view for the walk to Cambus o' May around a noticeable
curve (cambus means a bend), with a good view of the elegant suspension
bridge across the river.
Pass
the colourful Cambus Cottage, with lovely hanging baskets in summer.
There is a fine view of the wide sweep of river with heathery hills
beyond. The path continues, becoming a broad, straight sandy track
crossing the Muir of Dinnet, out of sight of both river and road.
The
track is fringed by birch and pine trees with at one point a glorious
sweep of heather on the left.
The
road is rejoined as Dinnet is reached. The developed footpath currently
ends here. You can either return to Ballater by the same route,
enjoying different views towards the hills of upper Deeside, or
perhaps relax at the inn in Dinnet for a while before catching the
bus back to Ballater.
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